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FDBN: Extra

EXTRA For FDBNHLLLTTFDISTRO’s issue on EXCESS Buy your copy at: https://fdbnhlllttfdistro.bigcartel.com/product/fdbnhlllttfexcess

StillPoint: Colette’s Mirror Play

  You enter through a cold glass door, inhaling manufactured flora laced with root gum and plastic that reaches the back of your throat; a room that smells of the faded lavender of angelica, the waxy rose of Geranium, extract of vanilla unnecessarily braced with resin. Powders are re-applied; you catch your reflection; there is the humContinue reading “StillPoint: Colette’s Mirror Play”

FIELD WORK: New Nature Writing from East Anglia

(Extract) Stained Pink But now she is conspicuous among Lydian women  as sometimes at sunset the rosyfingered moon    surpasses all the stars. And her light stretches over salt sea equally and flowerdeep fields. Sappho (translated by Anne Carson) I came back to this place—another salt sea, and flowerdeep fields—to write about us, or theContinue reading “FIELD WORK: New Nature Writing from East Anglia”

GIRLS ON TOPS: Water Lilies and the Mechanics of Femininity

  Girls beat the water, churning it up, are propelled into the air, and plunge beneath the surface. Thrust, twirl, split. Thrust, twirl split. Crane, Eggbeater, Descending Spin.  To synchronise is to happen at the same time, or to do what the other person, or people, or cog or wheel, is doing. In Water Lilies,Continue reading “GIRLS ON TOPS: Water Lilies and the Mechanics of Femininity”

PIN-UP Magazine: Around the Protean Table

  To live together in the world means essentially that a world of things is between those who have it in common, as a table is located between those who sit around it; the world, like every in-between, relates and separates men at the same time.  — Hannah Arendt, The Human Condition The table appears andContinue reading “PIN-UP Magazine: Around the Protean Table”

Assembly Online: Kate Zambreno

A Critical Reading Discussion April 23 2020 Writers Philippa Snow and Rose Higham-Stainton read from and discussed Heroines, by Kate Zambreno (Semiotext(e), 2012), ‘ a manifesto for “toxic girls” that reclaims the wives and mistresses of modernism for literature and feminism.’ Audience members can pose questions via the chatroom for Philippa and Rose to discuss.Continue reading “Assembly Online: Kate Zambreno”

Pluralist: Mirror Play

You enter through a cold glass door, inhaling manufactured flora laced with root gum and plastic that reaches the back of your throat; a room that smells of the faded lavender of angelica, the waxy rose of Geranium, extract of vanilla unnecessarily braced with resin. Powders are re-applied; you catch your reflection; there is theContinue reading “Pluralist: Mirror Play”

Studio Morison, 'MOTHER', 2020. Photo: Charles Emerson, Courtesy of Wysing Arts Centre and National Trust for New Geographies

MAP Magazine: MOTHER-SHIP

  I had been reading about bogs. The wide, flat immutability of the landscape, the low horizon, the stillness and the intensity of silence—all of these qualities could persuade you that a bog is not just set outside of time, but set apart from life. [1] I had been reading about bogs and was then expelledContinue reading “MAP Magazine: MOTHER-SHIP”

Attention anthology: Study of The Three Graces by Antonio Canova, and Voids

Co-editor of, and contributor to, Attention––an anthology of student work, self organised, and supported by RCA. Buy Study of The Three Graces by Antonio Canova, and Voids Rose Higham-Stainton It is not a room. One does not enter as much as pass through. But what it lacks in definition, it makes up for in content—youContinue reading “Attention anthology: Study of The Three Graces by Antonio Canova, and Voids”

The Ashtray Show 3: Psyche

Text piece for The Ashtray Show 3 – Black Friday at 4Cose.

NOIT — 5: bodies as in buildings

NOIT — 5: bodies as in buildings is a collection of essays, short stories, and images exploring what happens when the domestic, the home, and the body are alienated from their most basic associations and given new ones. In these works, the threshold between house and street, the distinction between the public and private, becomes porousContinue reading “NOIT — 5: bodies as in buildings”

Alpha Stories: the history and cultural signification of military apparel in fashion

I spoke to Alpha Industries about the history of the bomber jacket and military apparel in fashion. Military outerwear is so much about function and survival, which seems apt for right now: we’re facing environmental uncertainty while technology is enabling us to ‘do more’ with our minds and bodies in our daily lives. Fashion alwaysContinue reading “Alpha Stories: the history and cultural signification of military apparel in fashion”

Taro Nasu, Frieze London 2019 © Photo by Linda Nylind. Courtesy Linda Nylind / Frieze

RCA News: Frieze London 2019: Space – remembered, reconstituted, staged, altered

Perhaps I arrived at Frieze London 2019 – that colossal tent in Regent’s Park – already thinking about space because of the mass of white, stretched out and at odds with the turning trees of October. The annual art fair is a convergence of collectors, galleries and institutions who uproot artworks and serve them in proxy-gallery boothsContinue reading “RCA News: Frieze London 2019: Space – remembered, reconstituted, staged, altered”

Domestic Intervention: Women Making Houses into Artworks 1970-75

Domestic intervention: women making houses into artworks 1970-75 Read the full essay here  (Extract) As a child, in the chaos of part renovated houses of family members or family friends or in rubble outside my father’s workshop on the farm surrounded by pigs in arched shelters that spread like needlepoint across the horizon, I wouldContinue reading “Domestic Intervention: Women Making Houses into Artworks 1970-75”

Rose English: Forms, Feminisms and Femininities

1 March – 13 April 2019 There is loosely turned earth, packed tightly into the frame. It is mounded and grooved; grainless but fertile and waiting. Granularity pervades: it is difficult to decipher where the marked film of 1971 begins and the puckered, ploughed surface of the ground ends. It is shadow play in miniatureContinue reading “Rose English: Forms, Feminisms and Femininities”

B34 – immersive virtual textiles environment

The earth beneath your boot is dry, it is matter cracked by thirst. There is an absence here, this is a pillaged place deteriorating into nowhere. You must leave this cracked earth, for liquid, for light. A new dawn. Enter Observe the horizon. Distant line-break: crater, mountain, augmented terrain. Now pause and watch it dissolveContinue reading “B34 – immersive virtual textiles environment”

Pigeon & Peacocks: Issue 10

Profile: Feben Vemmenby For just a few minutes LCF’s BA17 graduate show was awash with reds – models clad in scarlet floor length veils, burgundy croc leather and ruched peplums. Womenswear Designer Feben Vemmenby’s collection was memorable not only in its visual intensity, but because red encapsulates 2017 in lots of ways, from republican redContinue reading “Pigeon & Peacocks: Issue 10”

Marta Jakubowski AW18 – Press Release

‘It’s all about my woman. She exists somewhere in my head and is growing every season’ ‘I‘m every woman, it‘s all in me Anything you want done, baby, I‘ll do it naturally’ Recall the video for Whitney Houston’s ‘I’m every woman’? Her sassy smile and pregnant belly. For AW18, Marta Jakubowski celebrates women – ourContinue reading “Marta Jakubowski AW18 – Press Release”

V Magazine: BEHIND THE LENS: NEW EXHIBITION EXPLORES THE FEMALE BODY IN THE FASHION IMAGE

The body and its service to, and disruption of clothing is the focus of a new fashion photography exhibition, featuring the likes of Brianna Capozzi, Marton Perlaki, Coco Capitan, Charlie Engman and Johnny Dufort. Spanning fashion editorial from 2010 to 2017, not chronologically but through themes such as styling and casting, it is the first installmentContinue reading “V Magazine: BEHIND THE LENS: NEW EXHIBITION EXPLORES THE FEMALE BODY IN THE FASHION IMAGE”

SSENSE: MARIEYAT IS DEEP DIVING

For her third MARIEYAT presentation, Marie Yat turned her Shoreditch studio into a quasi-diving tank, complete with depth measurements and diving cylinders. Photography by Nicolas Coulomb and Florence Tetier and casting by Leila Azizi A diverse cast of models wore high-waisted briefs with eyelet reveals, twisted bra-strap tops, and streamlined swimwear—imparting shades of pool-tile white, ocean blue,Continue reading “SSENSE: MARIEYAT IS DEEP DIVING”

Disobedient Bodies – JW Anderson curates the Hepworth Wakefield

Buffered by a main road and industrial estates on one side, and a river on the other, is The Hepworth in Wakefield – a rough concrete beacon of art, below brooding grey skies. This year has seen it hosts its first ever fashion-related exhibition, JW Anderson Curates the Hepworth Wakefield, drawing the industry and localsContinue reading “Disobedient Bodies – JW Anderson curates the Hepworth Wakefield”

JUNGLE MAGAZINE – Le Kilt AW17

“Le Kilt’s AW17 presentation, in the cavernous 180 The Strand, was like stumbling upon an intimate but familial party, replete with live music and family photographs. The presentation was titled ‘A Perfect Contract’ and for it, Le Kilt’s Samantha McCoach reflected on the notion of loyalty.” Read the article.

JUNGLE MAGAZINE – ASHLEY WILLIAMS AW17

“Ashley Williams’ AW17 show was all about contradictions – from paradise to paranoia, rhinestone cowgirls to highland swings. The collection was attire for 5am partying – slogan strewn sweats for those asleep in the corner, and beaded fringing on mini-dresses for the last ones standing. And twilight was realised through the abandoned shopping trolleys andContinue reading “JUNGLE MAGAZINE – ASHLEY WILLIAMS AW17”

JUNGLE MAGAZINE – FAUSTINE STEINMETZ AW17

“The Tanks at Tate Modern was a befitting location for Faustine Steinmetz’s AW17 presentation, which took us on a guided tour through the recent history of denim, replete with jean related artefacts and mannequin-like models suspended in display cases. Steinmetz has carved herself a niche, shunning fast-paced, trend-led collections for quietly evolving ones. Each season, she takesContinue reading “JUNGLE MAGAZINE – FAUSTINE STEINMETZ AW17”

Women’s March on Washington

January 2017 Why did I march? Beyond the many obvious reasons for marching… I marched because 2017 had to begin with something this momentous so that we seize the energy and positivity needed to not only endure, but defeat, the horror that 2016 bestowed upon us. We will have to fight harder than our generation has everContinue reading “Women’s March on Washington”

LOVE MAGAZINE: From quasi camping to a spa holiday: Reebok x Cottweiler

    “Cottweiler have taken their evolving brand of innovative, sporty-edged menswear on holiday, this season. From the quasi camping aesthetic of AW17 at LFWM, which was fit for an illegal rave and replete with glowing belly button piercings and sleeping bags, to a spa holiday at Pitti Oumo in Florence, where they presented theirContinue reading “LOVE MAGAZINE: From quasi camping to a spa holiday: Reebok x Cottweiler”

LOVE Magazine: Bucket hats and pylons: Lou Stoppard and Adam Murray explore ‘The North’ in Fashion

The Stone Roses and bucket hats. Pills at the Hacienda. Pylons and power stations. The North of England is the subject of a new exhibition opening at Open Eye Gallery in Liverpool, curated by Lou Stoppard and Adam Murray. ‘North: Identity, Photography and Fashion’ looks at how the region is presented in fashion and visualContinue reading “LOVE Magazine: Bucket hats and pylons: Lou Stoppard and Adam Murray explore ‘The North’ in Fashion”

DAZED DIGITAL: Tracing the MA-1 through fashion and subculture

  ‘Skinheads, Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons, Vetements and many, many more – here’s the history of that nylon bomber you own’ Read the article in full on Dazed Digital

Dazed Digital: What Yohji Yamamoto did when he got bored with fashion

“I was tired of making fancy clothing,” admits the 72-year-old Yohji Yamamoto in new short doc Master of the Shadows. Filmed around Y-3’s AW16 show, the designer is reflecting on his thirteen-year collaboration with adidas and how it revived his love of design at a time he was falling out of love with fashion. Read the full article andContinue reading “Dazed Digital: What Yohji Yamamoto did when he got bored with fashion”

Rollacoaster: Matthew Miller

I’ve been looking at clouds a lot,” says Matthew Miller when I ask about his upcoming SS17 collection for LCM. It wasn’t the response I expected from a Designer whose menswear is a non-conformist’s union of militant tailoring and deconstructed classics. But as he expands on the clouds it begins to make sense. “The aestheticContinue reading “Rollacoaster: Matthew Miller”

DAZED DIGITAL: The graduate creating menswear reimagining Muslim tradition

Newly graduating LCF menswear designer Nazifa Begum is presenting a collaborative, concept-driven iteration of her graduate collection in London this week as a presentation and accompanying film. The project, called Oummra, brings together the creative exploits of Begum, along with metal maker Slim Barrett, photographer Sam Bayliss Ibram, visual artist Hayden Martin, music collective Bala Club andContinue reading “DAZED DIGITAL: The graduate creating menswear reimagining Muslim tradition”

Dazed Digital: Why Juergen Teller puts himself in his photos

With his candid, snapshot style aesthetic having dominated the last three decades in fashion, Juergen Teller has played a prominent role in redefining the potential of fashion photography. The artist and photographer’s extensive career has included long-term collaborations with the likes of Marc Jacobs and Céline (shooting their campaigns every season), model Kristen McMenamy and more recently with Kim andContinue reading “Dazed Digital: Why Juergen Teller puts himself in his photos”

Pigeons & Peacocks: VETEMENTS – MAKING AND BREAKING THE RULES

Behind Vetements’ £400 oversize hoodies and four figure chopped jeans are two brothers from Georgia with a business model that has seen them rise to the top of the industry in just under two years. Now they’re ready to revolutionise the system and want you all to come along for the ride. Read the article

Dazed Digital: Ryan Lo AW16

This season (his seventh) saw Ryan Lo turn introspective, getting to grips with his heritage but also marking ten years of living in London. “It was about my childhood memories,” he said backstage. “It’s like revisiting all these things as a new person.” Lo has always drawn on fiction and fantasy to create his characters,Continue reading “Dazed Digital: Ryan Lo AW16”

Dazed Digital: Marta Jakubowski AW16

With a set that saw models stand on raised plinths covered with a thick layer of foamy bubbles, designer Marta Jakubowski was thinking about superheroes. Not caped crusaders, though – the personal strength and inner power of women who refuse to bow to expectations.   Read in full – Dazed Digital.

Pigeons & Peacocks: Capturing the Imperfect Moment

At an LCF Inside the Industry discussion about the book, Niall shared some of those images with the audience, commissioned by the likes of Harpers and Newsweek, accompanied by quips and quick wit. McInerney’s jump from photographing strippers in Soho to runway photographer is unsurprising – there is theatre in both subjects. Naomi’s stumble was oneContinue reading “Pigeons & Peacocks: Capturing the Imperfect Moment”

Rollacoaster Issue 18: Eckhaus Latta and NYC

A number of New York designers, disenfranchised by the shiny-shiny New York fashion scene and gender stereotypes that plague the industry, are breaking out and creating fiercely inclusive, non-gender binary clothing – the kind that is designed for absolutely everyone…. Buy Issue 18 now.

Pigeons & Peacocks – Issue 8

Interview with contemporary underwear designer Marie Yat for the eighth issue of Pigeons & Peacocks. Issue eight

Dazed: Cottweiler get spiritual with anti-fashion show in Berlin

  Staged in front of an intimate audience within the minimal tiled interior of new art and commerce spaceTrust Ltd, their performance openly referenced the Hare Krishnas, whose spirituality and uniformity underpinned the SS16 collection. For the piece, three models with shaved heads sat bathed in warm light and smoke, cross-legged on a square of terracotta carpet. TheyContinue reading “Dazed: Cottweiler get spiritual with anti-fashion show in Berlin”

CR Fashion Book: BACKSTAGE BEAUTY: CHRISTOPHER KANE

September 2015 Crash and repair was the theme for Christopher Kane’s Spring ’16 rebellious girls club collection, “making something beautiful out of something that has been destroyed“ explained Lucia Pieroni backstage today. “It’s all about the skin and brow,” she added. Read the full article on CR Fashion Book

Pigeons & Peacocks: Fashion & Feminism

Feminism is at an interesting point, with new tenets of popular culture such as selfies and celebrity, raising questions about not only what it is to be a feminist, but how women are represented by the media, fashion, music and film industries. From Beyonce’s feminist manifesto, to Taylor Swift calling on her power girl posseContinue reading “Pigeons & Peacocks: Fashion & Feminism”

Rollacoaster: Cottweiler

June 2015

Rollacoaster Issue 17: Christopher Shannon

Buy Rollacoaster issue 17.

East End Review: Louise Alsop

June 2015 East London designers to watch: Louise Alsop in East End Review You use a lot of layering techniques. What got you interested in this?  I really like being able to mix sheer and light fabrics with heavy and matte ones, so I think the layering came from this — seeing fabrics sitting togetherContinue reading “East End Review: Louise Alsop”

East End Review: Faustine Steinmetz

All your garments are hand-woven on looms by your team here in London. Tell us a little bit about the process. Each individual piece is made by one person so that they can put their name on it at the end and you know exactly who made that piece for you. We have a fewContinue reading “East End Review: Faustine Steinmetz”

East End Review: Spring

April 2016 The arrival of spring puts us in an annual state of flux. From April showers to sunburnt summers, we are destined to be second-guessing the weather until October comes around again. Read the article in full

East End Review: LFW SS15

October 2014 London Fashion Week SS15 showcased a bounty of new and emerging design talent, who brought a heavy dose of daring and DIY to the landscape of British fashion. New names such as Faustine Steinmetz and Charlie May, and young brands including Louise Alsop and Claire Barrow dominated the schedule.   Read the fullContinue reading “East End Review: LFW SS15”

Let’s Be Brief: Designing our identities

October 2014 Never have our identities, or perceived identities, been so malleable. Over time social media platforms such as My Space and Facebook, have allowed us to build our own profile, which can feature a considered selection of ‘like’s, be it books – insert numerous references by my generation to On the Road by JackContinue reading “Let’s Be Brief: Designing our identities”

Let’s Be Brief: Hoxton Mini Press

  September 2014 Focusing in on the microcosm of a few boroughs, these books not only capture the identity of east London, but the impact of wider societal issues on an area – from the Recession, to escalating house prices and social gentrification. Read the full article on Let’s Be Brief